Sunday 4 July 2010

Crusty white Italian loaf - unplugged


MsG recently invested in copies of Yotam Ottolenghi's two books: The Cookbook and Plenty. Plenty is packed with recipes from his Guardian Weekend column, such as the smashing Shakshuka. Both MsG and I have made recipes from this book and have found ourselves enjoying a variety of ingredients and combinations we'd previously never tried (and in some cases, vociferously refused) to cook with or eat.

The Cookbook also includes a hefty baking section. I've already made a few of the recipes, including the semolina tart (see pic below; I heretically used strawberries instead of the prescribed raspberries) and focaccia.



One recipe that had to be tackled was the crusty white Italian loaf. A recipe by Dan Lepard, the loaf is described as "having dark crunchy crust, soft waxy centre with giant holes and giant flavour". Sounds very tempting but the recipes states: "To achieve this creation … you need a good mixer as the dough is very wet and sticky and takes a lot of kneading. Don't try to do it by hand or using an old weak machine." For an advocate of hand made bread this caveat had the soft plopping sound of a floury baking gauntlet being thrown down.

The first attempt was a minor disaster. I tried using Richard Bertinet's technique for hand mixing but the final loaf was flat, dense and doughy; just awful. However, I was still convinced the loaf could be made completely by hand and was sure that if I adopted Dan Lepard's mxing style it would work. MsG tweeted Dan about it, and brilliantly, he replied saying that, yes a slow or no knead technique would work.

And so the following Friday I made the loaf using Mr Lepard's slow knead technique and the loaf was a success (see the handsome devil in the first picture above). An almost Faustian have-your-cake-and-eat-it mix of the best bits of all your favourite bread: a rustic crunchy crust, a soft, chewy crumb and a brilliant intense flavour. Definately well worth the effort.


Friday 2 July 2010

Mills and boon


Over the last few weekends MsG and I have visited some local mills. The Cambridge and Norfolk fens are littered with many remaining sites but only a handful are still complete, and even fewer are actually working.

The best we've seen so far has been the wonderful windmill in Denver. Thanks to the hard working owner, the mill is working well and producing ground flour.

If you should visit this delightful mill, please observe the following advice. Avoid shoving your arms or other appendages into anything that moves and clanks to avoid stomach churning mutilation; watch where your step so you don't plummet to your death; and avoid banging your noggin on the numerous head-height obstacles! Beware: danger! Do all of the above, buying a bag of freshly ground flour, relaxing and enjoying a cup of tea and a bacon sandwich (cake for the veggies!) in their lovely tea room and stop to chat with the owner and you'll have found yourself tucking away another fond memory.